Maybe I’m wrong in thinking this, but it’s always struck me that Indian food gets kind of a bad rap. It generally conjures up thoughts of butter chicken and loads of curry. It’s unfamiliar, and many are afraid to step outside their comfort zone.
Although I consider myself an adventurous eater who’s down to try just about anything, I must admit I had no idea when I first walked into The Oven a few years ago. Though this style of food was completely foreign to me, I kept an open mind, and I’m very glad I did. It proved to be my introduction to one of my favorite restaurants in the state.
Sitting on the corner of 8th and P in the Haymarket (Lincoln), The Oven delivers delicious Indian cuisine you won’t find anywhere else in the state. The atmosphere is terrific. The lighting is kept low, giving it an upscale feel, but the walls are peppered with playful animal heads, masks and paintings that keep the restaurant from feeling stuffy.
The menu is littered with items that you won’t find at most Lincoln restaurants, but it does a great job explaining each one, giving the diner a good sense of what he or she is ordering. There is an extensive offering of lamb, chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes, all offering varying levels of spice, vegetables and curry.
Before digging into the entrees, however, one must simply start with some of The Oven’s fantastic naan bread. A leavened, oven-baked flatbread that slightly resembles a softer pita bread, naan is a staple of Central Asian/Indian food, and for good reason. It’s doughy texture is tremendous, providing that bread flavor with a bit more chewiness.
Naan bread stuffed with chicken and cheese
The Oven’s traditional naan is fantastic, but the restaurant doesn’t stop there. It offers the traditional dish with a number of different toppings, including chicken, cheese and veggies. My girlfriend and I ordered one stuffed with cheese and chicken, and the result is basically the best cheesy bread you’ve ever tasted. It arrives looking like a pizza, but the dough is so soft and there’s no sauce. Cooking it tandoor provides nice crispy bubbles of bitterness, which are accented perfectly by the cheese. It’s brilliant on its own, but accompanying it with the provided mint chutney elevates it even higher.
Kadai Gosht
Because of my love of spicy food, I ordered the Lamb Vindaloo on nearly every previous visit to The Oven, and the dish is fantastic. But I switched it up on this visit and opted for the Kadai Gosht, which cooks tender chunks of lamb with sautéed onions, tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, ginger and spices. The dish didn’t look all that pleasing upon arrival, but this is a classic case of not judging a book by its cover. The lamb is succulent and perfectly tender, easily pulled apart with a fork. The tomato sauce is slightly sweet and, while I didn’t catch much heat from the jalapeños, the dish was a true pleasure when served on a bed of rice.
Shrimp Jalfrazie
As much as I enjoyed the lamb, the Shrimp Jalfrazie was even better. This dish combines jumbo shrimp with mild spices and is sautéed with fresh tomatoes. The shrimp are downright brilliant. They’re enormous and delicate and bring just the right combo of sweet and savory. The onions, peppers and tomatoes that accompany soak up the broth, which is buttery and delicious.
Mulligatawny soup
Each dish comes with an option of salad or Mulligatawny soup, pureed lentils that are flavored with spices and garnished with rice and fresh cilantro. It has a peppery, slightly spicy flavor that is enhanced by adding the acidity of lemon juice. It’s not a knockout starter, but it’s certainly not a bad way to begin the meal.
All in all, The Oven is excellent, and Lincolnites are taking notice. The place is typically packed around dinner time, especially on weekends, and for good reason. While Indian food may be foreign to most Nebraskans, it’s fantastic when done right, and The Oven is certainly doing that.
Those who fear the unknown are missing out on one of the best restaurants in Lincoln.
Hoppen Hierarchy: 9.0 out of 10
Pros: Extensive menu; incredible naan, offered in many varieties; neat atmosphere; delicious, tender lamb and shrimp; menu explains foreign dishes very well
Cons: A tad on the expensive side (most entrees run from $14-$18)
Just a Guy 